It’s that time again, when sheets of white snow begin to melt away and nature’s spectrum of colour is slowly unfurled. To celebrate this transformational season, we’ve rounded up makeup and hair artists of the highest order to translate the latest in runway beauty trends into everyday wear. Artists from Paris, New York, L.A. and Toronto share the latest in eyes, lips, face and hair, revealing ‘It’ looks that take us back to eras of lavish excess and Technicolor dreamcoats.
The revival of the ’70s and ’80s shines in sweeps of striking pigment in turquoise, lilac, sea foam green and electric orange across the lid. For a modern twist on the classic look, Delorme combines quirky pigment with sophisticated and precise application.
This spring, he applies a vibrant shade across the lid for predominant definition, blending outward to create a soft smoky allure: daring yet distinguished.
M.A.C.’s Wonder Woman pigment in Bright Fuchsia provides a punch of powder, easy for building smoke, while NARS duo shadow in Bateau Ivre offers a matte mermaid blue. JOE FRESH Cream Eyeshadow in Guava is a techno-shade you can build upon, or, for a softer take on courageous colour, slide on a shadow stick like the fresh lime green of NARS Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Celebrate, a good alternative for those who need easing into this brighter-than-bright colour trend.
To infuse elegance, be bold on the lid but naked in the lash. Delorme applies a cream or clear mascara on the tips to create a wet, vulnerable appearance. For a subtle pigment on the eye, coat lashes with coloured mascara like CHANEL Infinite Length and Curl in Deep Purple. As for liner, trust the artist and go bare. Applying it alongside green or fuchsia shadow will have you looking more Sunset Boulevard than Lauren Hutton.
Metallics spark smoky sophistication this season. Delorme adores classic shadows in dark greys, blacks, browns and nudes updated with iridescent pigment. DIOR 5 Colour Palette in Rosy Tan encases gold, brown and soft nude shine, while ESTÉE LAUDER Pure Colour Palette in Wild Violet shows off shades of deep shimmer lilac. Try CHANEL’s Soft Touch Eye shadow for a mighty metallic in Fauve. Coquettes looking for something more playful will swoon for M.A.C.’s Wonder Woman Shadow, a bouquet of flora shades to adore, while more daring types might opt for SHISEIDO Luminizing Satin Eye Trio in Punky Blues; electric sheen sure to survive all-day wear. Wallflowers, don’t fret, less coverage is attainable with NARS Shadow Stick in Hollywoodland, a golden tint that is just enough glitter to rival sun-kissed.
Thick, bushy brows are the shape of choice this season: think Brooke Shields, Vogue 1980. Thin-browed ladies do not despair, your delicate brows can outwit this trend if groomed and defined with brow pencil. Try CHANEL Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil for refined sophistication, paired with a pop of pigment on the lids.
Eyes aren’t the only canvas for bright fuchsia and tangerine; these dynamic shades are also taking hold of lips. The look is not a total revival of Debbie Harry, circa 1982; the Spring 2011 runway modernizes the lip by following one golden rule: balance the features.
MinMinMa swears by this rule: The trick is to isolate colour and pair with next-to-no colour on the rest of the face. Bright red or hot pink lips become a statement when paired with nude on the eye, accented by a few coats of mascara, and a drop of bronzer for definition.
When it comes to picking the perfect electric shade there are a few things to consider. For beauty junkies and runway devotees courting the über-polished look of this season’s matte lip, beware. Matte can be drying and hard to manipulate, touch up, and maintain during the day.
For daytime wear, chrome textures keep the mood leisurely regardless of loud colours. DIOR ADDICT offers a stimulating red in Fire, while ESTÉE LAUDER Pure Colour flashes intense pigment in Electric Coral. For a similar product with a lower price point, JOE FRESH lip gloss in Grenadine creates a pop of heavy pigment and extreme gloss. Rather crawl back to the ’80s instead of run? Glosses like NARS in Angelika or JOE FRESH in Chai incorporate rather than parade colour.
Shedding the winter layers is an essential part of spring; it seems only natural that lips be stripped of colour and painted flesh tone. If you’re going for a muted colour, or in search of a nude to pair with a strong eye, M.A.C. Lipglass in Gaga Viva Glam will keep your lips moist with full coverage, while NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Madere will give you a complete matte finish. Concerned about the heft of your pout? Try SHISEIDO Shimmering Rouge in Ingenue for a shimmery nude beige that gives lips added fullness. And, if baring it all is what you prefer, simply apply a coat of DIOR Crystal Gloss for a subtle allure.
Mimic the suns nourishing rays with a natural, healthy finish by creating a clean, well-balanced look that allows the texture of your skin to show through.
Exposure to a dry winter climate can leave skin dull and flaky. The first step is to rehydrate the face before its big debut. LIERAC Hydra-Chrono Balm provides instant relief. The intense moisturizer restores hydration and reduces the look of ageing. To restore the face’s natural glow, apply LIERAC Concentré Mésolift Toning Radiance Serum under the balm.
Contouring is the key to highlighting natural features. For an everyday look, use two foundations for definition: a regular base and a natural tone three shades darker than your own. For the latter, look for a buildable, light foundation to avoid looking painted. Apply base colour all over, then the darker shade to the hollow parts of the cheeks, the sides of the nose and anywhere else to create depth and shape.
Like lips and eyes, foundation is more matte this season: perfectly porcelain. But since the sun inspires a natural glow, Lee suggests what she refers to as a midway texture: not too dewy and not overly matte. DIOR Healthy Glow Summer Fluid creates a radiant, ultra-nude finish to help build a warm definition, while SHISEIDO Perfect Refining Foundation provides a semi-matte finish with medium exposure. For a little more coverage, a touch of M.A.C.’s Studio Fix Fluids allows freckles to shine through yet is still able to cover up unwanted blemishes.
To complete the fresh and flawless look, a high beam highlighter will attract the light when applied just under the brow, on the inner corner of the eyes, and over the top of the cheekbones. If bronzer is a seasonal must for you, kick the habit and achieve subtle radiance with a dusting of DIOR’s Nude Glow Summer Powder upon the cheekbones.
After all, when it comes to bronzer, it’s best left on the Jersey Shore. For everyday, Lee suggests using minimal blush and tan enhancer with techno-coloured eyes. Limit bronzer to sculpting; resist the temptation of applying over the entire face. Go for a matte texture to avoid a muddied finish.
The ’60s and ’70s collide with the fusion of undone hair and polished volume. Don’t let the glossies intimidate you; natural wave with wide volume and lifted roots is easily transferred from the runway to the sidewalk.
For clients like Jimmy Choo’s Tamara Mellon, Stanwell applies a shampoo to thoroughly cleanse the hair for styling. PHYTO’S Phytovolume Shampoo’s ultra thin liquid formula gently cleanses hair while injecting bounce. Hair becomes light, lifted and squeaky clean. The artist’s trade secret to lively, fluffy texture is a double dose of shampoo and rinse. The first lifts the dirt from the roots and the second removes it.
Next, spray a volumizer to bounce hair away from the roots. KIEHL’s Super Thick Volumizer spray adds large body with little product. Blow-dry the hair upside down, combing with fingertips for texture. When finished, flip over and give it a little tease. Run a round brush through the top to manipulate volume. Set with a spray like protein-infused PHYTO Finishing Spray, setting the top slightly poofed and sides wide with the ends left unbridled. A modern twist on two classic styles.
Less is more when it comes to products. With the right shampoo and conditioner Stanwell says the hair will react accordingly. If you need a kick-start after winter, apply a mask to condition the hair like KIEHL’S Superbly Smoothing Argan Hair Pak. It’s rich enough to transform the most unruly, brittle hair into a dramatically silky mane. To help boost a naturally tousled wave, apply a cream like PHYTO Matte Texturizing Paste before blow-drying.
A ’70s revival goes hand-in-hand with braids. Since Sienna Miller wore a milkmaid braid at the 2009 Golden Globes, celebrities have been braid-crazed. A pretty daytime look, whether loose or tightly woven, stylists are always trying to recreate braids and find different places to put them. Be creative with your own braids and don’t be pillow shy. Bedhead is all the better when a braid is involved.