The London-based designer Jean-Pierre Braganza is one expat we love welcoming back to his native Canadian runway. Having studied fine arts previous to the beginning down the fashion path at Central Saint Martins College, the designer has made his name on collections that flourish from his background in painting, teamed with consummate tailoring.

Braganza’s client list speaks to his line’s firm grip on the Zeitgeist, with celebs including Rufas Wainwright, Alison Goldfrapp and the boys of The Kings of Leon amongst just a few of the names.

We go backstage at The Shows to talk to Braganza about his SS13 collection, and the inspiration behind the gritty femininity of his women’s line.

Who is the “Braganza” girl?

Zinaida Lihacheva! Zinaida is a Ukranian artist and designer; we met after she came to one of my shows in London. I spotted her in the front row, and pointed her out to my PR who arranged for us to meet. It was one of those meetings where instantly we connected and have developed a strong friendship, [and] collaborated on digital prints from her paintings for this collection. Zinaida is deeply emotional, with a distinctive style. She is just amazing.

Which global city’s sense of style best represents your current collection?

Tokyo. It’s so progressive and there is such an appreciation and eye for detail and quality.

What is your favourite piece from the collection?

I love all the tailored pieces. In particular a waistcoat that I created a pattern for one night up late in the studio. It is the opening look for the show.

What music were you listening to while designing this collection?

Great question. Auphelion — he is a genius! He is the lead singer of my old band, we grew up together as indie rock boys and have collaborated on the last two seasons runway tracks together (including this season). Mark (Auphelion) is based in Toronto. We will meet and throw ideas back and forth for the soundtrack to the collection via Skype. It’s an infusion of soft rock with an industrial edge.

What is your uniform, and from this, what piece can you not live without?

My chunky knit cardigan. It’s something I designed a while ago when I was creating menswear. I typically wear it with my drop crotch pants. The entire ensemble is usually all black.

Jean-Pierre Braganza SS13